How Pearl Code recognise the quality of pearls

Pearls may look alike, but no two are ever the same. The value of each lies in its luster, color, nacre depth, surface clarity, and harmony of shape. At Pearl Code, these details become the essential criteria by which we select the pearls worthy of becoming true collector’s pieces.

Nacre Thickness

Nacre is the very essence of a pearl. The thicker the nacre layer, the greater the durability and the deeper the glow.

• Freshwater pearls are composed almost entirely of nacre, which gives them stability and a lasting brilliance.

• In saltwater pearls, nacre thickness is measured in fractions of a millimeter, and even small differences separate a delicate pearl from an exceptional one.

Luster 

One of the most important criteria is luster, the way light reflects off the surface. High-quality pearls display a sharp, intense “halo,” almost like a natural mirror. This is the effect that lights up the face and makes the jewel irresistible.

Surface

Each pearl carries the imprint of its own formation process. Some have fine lines or tiny spots, while others approach a perfectly clean surface. The more uniform the nacre, the more it enhances the luster and the more desirable the pearl becomes in jewelry.

Shape

Perfectly round pearls are associated with timeless refinement, yet beauty comes in many forms. Pearls can be near-round, drop-shaped, oval, baroque, keshi, or mabé. Designers love this diversity because it allows them to create pieces with individuality and a distinct style. 

Color and Overtones

Pearls fascinate with a rich spectrum of colors: white, cream, pink, lavender, or gray. Overtones such as rose, silver, green, or the famous “peacock” add depth. The intensity of the tone completes the charm, turning each pearl into a small work of art.

Size

Size influences market value. Larger pearls are rarer and stand out through their presence, with South Sea pearls reaching diameters of more than 18 mm. The true beauty of a pearl lies in the balance between size, luster, surface, and shape.

Quality Classifications

The jewelry industry uses an indicative system to evaluate pearls:

• AAA – exceptional luster, mirror-like reflection, surface over 95% clean. Nacre thickness: ≥ 0.4 mm (depending on type).

• AA – very good luster, up to 25% minor imperfections visible. Nacre thickness: approx. 0.2–0.3 mm.

• A – medium luster, 20–30% of the surface marked. Nacre thickness: under 0.2 mm.

• B/C/D – low luster, more than 30% of the surface shows imperfections. Nacre thickness: under 0.1 mm.

These technical figures may seem small, yet each fraction of a millimeter radically changes the appearance, durability, and value of a pearl.

Pearl quality is revealed in measurable details: nacre thickness, clarity of luster, smoothness of the surface, harmony of shape, and intensity of color. Once you understand these criteria, choosing a pearl becomes a conscious experience filled with meaning and refinement.

👉 Explore Pearl Code collections and choose pearls that reflect your style. Each jewel is carefully selected to combine natural beauty with elegance and durability.